Bali, Two Ways: Jungle and Sea

Bali has been loved almost to breaking point in places, and first-timers often come away either enchanted or exhausted, depending on where they spent their time. The fix is simple: treat Bali as two trips in one. Start inland, in the green and the temples, then move to the coast to unwind. Do it in that order and you leave relaxed rather than frazzled.

Inland: Ubud and the Green Heart

Ubud is the cultural centre, surrounded by rice terraces, river valleys, yoga studios and temples. Base yourself just outside the town rather than in its busy middle, wake early for the terraces before the tour buses, and give yourself time for a proper spa day and a river walk. This is the restorative half of the trip.

The Coast: Choose Quiet

For the beach half, skip the traffic of Seminyak and Canggu unless nightlife is the point. The east and the Bukit peninsula are calmer and more beautiful, with dramatic cliffs, better swimming and a fraction of the crowds. It's a short drive for a completely different mood.

Where to Stay

Split your stay to match the trip: Four Seasons Sayan for the jungle-and-river magic near Ubud, then Amankila on the serene east coast for cliffs, privacy and that famous three-tiered pool.