The Connaught

London has grander hotels and louder ones. It does not have a better-mannered one. The Connaught sits on a quiet corner of Mayfair behind red brick and white stone, and its entire operating philosophy appears to be that nobody should ever feel managed.

It is the hotel of choice for people who could stay anywhere and would rather not be looked at while doing so. The lobby is small. There is no scene. The staff recognise returning guests and say nothing about it.

The Bar

The Connaught Bar has been at or near the top of every serious bar list for over a decade, and unusually for such things, it deserves it. The room is a silvery Cubist box by David Collins, the service is precise without being solemn, and the martini trolley is the best piece of theatre in London hospitality.

You choose a gin or vodka, then a bitters from a small rank of bottles, and the drink is built at your table with unhurried ceremony. It costs a great deal and is worth doing at least once. Book, or arrive early, because it fills.

Rooms

The rooms split between traditional and contemporary, and both are done properly. Ceilings are high, bathrooms are marble and generous, and the soundproofing is genuinely excellent, which matters more in central London than almost anything else.

Ask for something on the Carlos Place side facing the Tadao Ando water feature, or higher up at the back for absolute quiet. Avoid the lowest floors near the entrance if you are a light sleeper.

Eating

Helene Darroze at the Connaught holds three stars and is one of the few hotel restaurants in London that people book for its own sake rather than convenience. Jean-Georges at the Connaught, in the lighter room at the front, is the more useful everyday option and does an excellent lunch.

Afternoon tea in the Espelette is significantly less of a production than at the more touristed London hotels, which is precisely its appeal.

The Verdict

If you want to be seen, stay elsewhere. If you want the best-run hotel in Mayfair, a bar worth flying for, and a staff that will quietly remember everything, this is the one. Not on Booking.com, so book direct or through a travel agent with Maybourne access.