Royal Mansour

The Royal Mansour was commissioned by the King of Morocco, and it was built the way things are built when the budget is not the primary constraint. Around 1,500 craftsmen worked on it for three years. The zellij tilework, the carved cedar, the sculpted plaster and the hand-beaten brass were all made on site by people who had trained for decades.

The result is not a hotel in any conventional sense. It is a small walled medina of fifty-three private riads, each a house of two or three floors with its own courtyard, its own roof terrace and, in most cases, its own plunge pool.

The Tunnels

The detail everyone repeats, and it is true, is that the staff move through a network of underground passages. Housekeeping, room service and maintenance all arrive via a service stair inside your riad rather than by crossing the gardens.

The effect is genuinely strange at first and then completely seductive. The gardens are always empty of trolleys and uniforms. Your breakfast appears. The turndown happens. You never see the mechanism, and after a day you stop wondering about it and simply enjoy the silence.

Living in a Riad

A riad here is a serious amount of space, typically a sitting room and courtyard on the ground floor, bedrooms above, and a roof terrace with a fireplace and a pool on top. Families and couples travelling together get something closer to a private villa than a hotel room.

The craft is the point. Sit in the courtyard for ten minutes and you start noticing the tilework patterns, the way the cedar screens throw shadows, the fact that nothing in the room is machine-made. Very few hotels reward looking closely in this way.

The Spa, and the City

The spa is a three-storey white atrium in wrought iron that looks like a birdcage designed by a perfectionist, with a hammam that is the best in a city full of them. Give it a full afternoon rather than an hour.

The one honest caveat is location. You are just outside the medina rather than inside it, which buys quiet and space but means Marrakech itself arrives by car. The hotel will drive you to the Jemaa el-Fnaa in minutes, but this is not a hotel you wander out of.

The Verdict

Extravagant in a way that very few places on earth are, and much warmer than that sounds. If you can justify the rate once, this is the sort of hotel that recalibrates what you think is possible. Take a riad with a pool and stay at least three nights.